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To make sure my edge bands match the rest of the project, I normally make my own from the same type of wood. The problem is that
I cannot reference the good side of the work piece against the rip fence without risking the kickback since the space between the blade
and the fence is too narrow. If I reference the waste side of the work piece against the rip fence, I have to readjust the fence for every cut.
This is a time consuming process and it is very difficult to get a uniform thickness across all pieces.
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A simple J-shaped jig made out of 5-6"-wide board and a fixed ledge at the end solves the above problems. But this jig is awkward
to use when you have rip very long (6-8') edge bands (you have to hold both the work piece and jig tightly together). So I come up
with the design for adjustable edge band ripping jig (see picture on the left.)
This jig has three main parts: the 6-8"-wide base, the tilting push handle with adjustable ledged sole, and the integrated push
down feather board. The picture below shows all the parts unassembled.
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 A |
6-8" -wide, 3/4" thick plywood base. The length is a little shorter than the width of the table saw top. |
| B |
Tilted push handle with the hinged edge 1-1.5" from the right side of the base. |
| C |
Mount bracket for adjustable ledge |
| D |
Adjustable ledge assembly. The ledge is made of hardwood 0.25" thick, with the same width of the base
thickness and the length slightly less than the base's width. |
| E |
Adjustable push down feather board assembly |
| F |
Side wall rides against rip fence and under the push down clamp on the fence to add stability prevent lift up. |
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| To use the jig, I adjust the ledge piece slightly narrower than the desired thickness of the edge band. Then
I adjust the push down feather board, place the jig against the rip fence and set the distance between the blade and the side
of the jig appropriately. I start with the push handle tilted side way to allow the work piece to reference tightly against the side
of the jig. By tilting the push handle, the other end of the ledge piece automatically dips below the surface of the table top-effectively
prevents the entire jig from sliding forward. |
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During the ripping, the integrated push down keeps the work piece secure and prevents shattering
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From the picture below, the sidewall performs two functions: firstly, it rests against the rip fence and
resists the tilting force (B) of the jig when the work piece goes under the featherboard. Secondly, it works
with the (home made) hold down clamp to prevent the lifting force (A)
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Once I push the work piece past the ledge area of the jig, the push handle can tilt back to normal position
and allow the ledge to catch the end of the work piece. In this position, the ledge is also clear the table top
and I can push the entire jig and the work piece all the way forward to complete the cut.
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| With this jig, I can make very thin and long edge bands safely (see picture below, the thickness of the edge
band is even less than the width of the saw kerf). Since there is no need to readjust the rip fence, the operation is fast and the
cuts are always uniform. Also, with the adjustable ledge piece, the same jig can be used for variety of edge band thicknesses. |
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| Also, used it together with the horizontal featherboard, we can keep on ripping until
the waste piece is as thin as the saw kerf itself (see picture below). So the waste piece is minimum.
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| The adjustable ledge and the push down feather board make this jig also suitable for other typical ripping operations
as well. The added benefit is that, with push handle always at hand, it helps promote the safe use of my table saw since there is
no need to search for the push stick toward the end of the cuts. |
